"Fermentation by definition is an anaerobic process. The lactic
acid bacteria that carry out dairy and vegetable fermentations can grow in the
presence of air but do not use oxygen to generate energy for growth. Using a
fermentation lock to exclude oxygen but allow gas to escape will prevent
aerobic yeasts and molds from growing. Aerobic yeasts and molds growing on the
surface of sauerkraut brines can soften the kraut and produce off flavors. A
more serious problem is that yeasts and molds growing aerobically on the
surface of vegetable fermentation brines can consume the lactic acid and can
cause pH to rise above 4.6, potentially resulting in botulism. Anaerobic
fermentation of cabbage, on the other hand, with 2% salt (NaCl) and a
temperature around 18C (64F) typically makes very good quality
sauerkraut". Dr. Fred Breidt, USDA, Microbiologist
Weight Matters
Salt is to brine, like flour is to a well-made bread. Proportions
matter, and in both cases, measuring spoons and cups are inadequate tools when
it comes to obtaining the correct amount of dry ingredients. Just like every type of grain has a different weight, every salt has a
different weight depending on its grind, density and moisture content.
Salt, like flour, is a more reliable, consistent ingredient, when weighed
- NOT measured.
To illustrate...Each dish in the above-photo contains 1 level-tablespoon of unrefined,
additive-free (no added iodine or anti-caking agents) high-mineral salt, every
one a unique brand and grind, ranging from super-fine to large and coarse.
Several are moist, some are bone-dry. The brick-red Hawaiian salt (NOT
meant to be used as a brine-salt, but instead, a "finishing" salt)
contains added clay. Using a digital scale, set to metric-grams instead U.S. ounces, we weighed
each tablespoon of salt.
The end result:
Their weights ranged from 10 to 16-grams per tablespoon.
That's a whopping 60%
difference, negatively or positively impacting salinity! Variations in
salinity will impact fermentation.
Salt helps lactic acid bacteria win the microbial race. At
a certain salt concentration, lactic acid bacteria grow more quickly than other
microbes, and have a competitive advantage.
Below the correct concentration, bad
bacteria may survive and spread more easily, possibly out-competing lactic acid
bacteria and spoiling your pickles. Also, lactic acid bacteria don't survive in
brines that are less than 1%. The "no-salt" fermentation
movement doesn't have its roots in traditional fermentation, but instead, in
modern misunderstandings about the importance of salt.
Too much salt is also a problem. Lactic
acid bacteria cannot thrive, leaving your vegetables unpickled, and instead,
salt-cured. Salt-cured has always been a traditional method of fermentation,
but it is intentional - meant to kill lactic acid bacteria. What's more,
salt-tolerant yeasts can spread more quickly. By consuming lactic acid,
yeasts make the pickles less acidic - and more hospitable to spoilage microbes.
Weigh, Don't Measure Salt
1.
Use easy-to-read brine-tables - based on traditional formulas used by artisan butchers, cheese and pickle-makers.
2. Create the amount of brine you need, whether 1-cup,
1-gallon, or 1-liter, at the proper salinity-level, following our easy-to-read
chart.
3. Buy a gram-scale. Digital scales are
inexpensive - under $20 - readily available. Make sure there's a
"tare" button to zero-out your scale, to obtain the most accurate
weight. Scales have a toggle-switch on the underside, one-side labeled
"OZ", and the other, "GM". Switch the switch to GM - grams.
Which salt is best?
We recommend most dry salts - never wet. Wet salts typically contain
clay or dirt, providing coloration (grey, red, brown, etc.) but they also act
as a "substrate", a surface on which mold grows. Even when wet
salts are baked at a very high temperature, in the hopes of killing mold,
rsearch has shown that many mold spores survive. Another issue, not
talked about enough, is the lead-content of many northern salts. All salts are graded, like a good wine, according to their quality and
use. We prefer a gourmet-grade for any culinary use, including
fermentation.
2%? 3.5%? 5%? 10%?
Which brine is best?
Dr. Fred
Breidt, a USDA microbiologist and UNC microbiology professor is quoted in
mainstream pro-fermentation articles, as saying that properly-made
"lactic
acid fermentation is SAFER than canned food".
Dr. Breidt enthusiastically suggested that we could reduce the amount of salt
normally used in other methods. Because our anaerobic-container
suffocates oxygen-rich mold and yeast, the excess salt is NOT inhibit their
growth.
"Anaerobic fermentation of cabbage, on the other hand, with 2% salt
(NaCl) and a temperature around 18C (64F) typically makes very good quality
sauerkraut."
Dr. Breidt's summary was: "Using the 2% with its
anaerobic-conditions, would create a consistently good end-product with
superior results in taste, flavor and color retention."
2% Salinity: Carrot sticks, shreds, slices; broccoli,
cauliflower, pearl onions, green beans (add grape leaves to preserve color),
asparagus, green/red peppers de-seeded, parsnip, kohlrabi, Jerusalem artichoke,
zucchini (whole), sliced radish, whole-small radish, whole green tomato, are
but a few examples. Quick guide: Fill the Pickl-It with food (dice, chunk,
whole, etc.) to 1-inch below the "shoulder". Add 2% brine to
the "shoulder" so your vegetables are covered with 1-inch of brine.
3.5% Salinity: Pickled cukes for pickling-varieties
such as Kirby or Boston. Fermented short-term (7-days on-counter, then 2
weeks in fridge) creates "half-sour" - still half-white, somewhat
green inside. More fermentation-time creates evenly-distributed green
color and sublime flavor.
10% Salinity: For those serious about brine-curing
meat, crafting authentic feta-cheese, pepper-mashes, curing green olives,
authentic fish-sauce, and shrimp-sauce.
Chart #1: Water is U.S. Measurement, salt in grams.
Examples: To create 8-cups of brine at 2% salinity, use 38
grams of salt. To create 3-cups of brine at a 2% salinity, add the amount
of salt called for in the columns under 1-cup (5 grams) and 2-cups (10 grams)
which equals 15-grams of salt. If creating a 1% brine, simply divide the 2%
salt grams by 50%. To make a 1% brine for 2-cups of water, use half of
the 5-grams, ROUND DOWN to 2 grams.
Adapted from http://www.pickl-it.com